Best MTB Pedals

MTB pedals have gotten complicated with all the platform sizes, materials, and engagement systems flying around. As someone who’s destroyed multiple pairs of pedals on rocky trails and gone through the clipless-to-flat-to-clipless-again journey, I learned everything there is to know about what actually matters for mountain bike pedals. Today, I will share it all with you.

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That’s what makes pedal selection endearing to us mountain bikers — it’s entirely personal. The pedal your buddy swears by might be the wrong choice for your feet, shoes, and riding style.

Clipless vs Flat Pedals

Probably should have led with this section, honestly. This decision shapes everything else about your pedal choice.

Clipless Pedals

The name confuses everyone. Clipless means you clip in. The “less” refers to old-school toe clips with straps that came before. Your shoes have cleats that lock into the pedal mechanism.

You get power on both the downstroke and upstroke. On climbs, this matters. You can pull through dead spots in your pedal stroke. Your feet won’t bounce off on rough sections, which builds confidence in chunk.

The learning curve is real. You will fall over at a stop sign, probably multiple times, because your brain forgets to unclip. Practice in grass first. Cross-country and trail riders gravitate toward clipless once they’re comfortable.

Flat Pedals

Wear any shoes. Step on, step off. Simple. No special equipment beyond the pedals themselves.

You can reposition your feet mid-trail. Need to dab on a sketchy section? Just put your foot down. Downhill and freeride riders often prefer flats because they can bail easily when things go wrong.

Good flats with aggressive pins grip almost as well as clipless in normal conditions. The difference shows on technical climbs where you’d benefit from pulling up.

Top Clipless MTB Pedals

Shimano PD-M520

The Shimano PD-M520 pedals are the ones that come on your buddy’s bike that they’ve been riding for a decade. They work. SPD system is the most common, so cleats and replacement parts are available everywhere.

Adjustable tension lets you set how hard they are to clip out. Start loose, tighten as you get comfortable. Affordable entry point that performs well above its price.

Crankbrothers Eggbeater 3

The Crankbrothers Eggbeater 3 has an open design that looks weird but serves a purpose — mud falls through instead of packing in. Four-sided entry means you clip in without looking down. Lighter than most competitors.

Float feels different from SPD. Some riders love the freedom of movement; others prefer more locked-in feel. Worth trying before committing.

Time ATAC XC 6

The Time ATAC XC 6 uses a different mechanism than SPD. It clips uses a different motion than SPD. Clips in and out smoothly, self-cleans well in mud. The platform provides stability beyond what the eggbeater-style offers.

Reliable for cross-country racing and general trail riding. Not the lightest or cheapest, but consistent performance in varying conditions.

Top Flat MTB Pedals

Race Face Chester

The Race Face Chester is the value king. Nylon composite construction survives rock strikes that would destroy cheaper plastics. Wide platform with replaceable pins. Works for everything from trail riding to park laps.

Heavy compared to metal options, but the price difference buys a lot of forgiveness. Good first flat pedal or backup pair.

OneUp Components Composite Pedals

The OneUp Components Composite Pedals have a thin profile that puts your feet closer to the spindle, improving control feel. 10 pins per side provide grip without being so aggressive they tear up your shins. Durable composite at a reasonable price.

Concave shape keeps your feet centered. Works well with soft-soled shoes that mold around the platform.

Crankbrothers Stamp 7

The Crankbrothers Stamp 7 is available in different sizes — match to your actual foot, not your shoe size. Small, medium, and large options ensure proper support. Adjustable pins let you tune grip.

Aluminum construction with quality bearings. Holds up to aggressive riding. Premium price but premium durability for downhill and enduro abuse.

Materials and Durability

Material choice involves trade-offs:

Aluminum pedals handle impacts well and last forever with proper care. Heavier than composite but more durable for rock gardens. Magnesium saves weight but dents easier.

Nylon composite works better than expected. Modern composites handle abuse that would have shattered older plastic pedals. Cheaper to replace when you do destroy them.

Bearings matter more than body material for longevity. Sealed cartridge bearings keep grit out. Serviceable bearings let you rebuild instead of replace.

Cleat Compatibility

Clipless systems aren’t cross-compatible. SPD cleats work only with SPD pedals. Crankbrothers, Time, and Look each have their own standards. Pick a system and commit — your shoes will have that cleat pattern.

Multi-release cleats unclip when you twist in any direction. Standard cleats only release outward. Beginners benefit from multi-release; experienced riders often prefer standard for security.

Weight Considerations

Pedals spin every revolution, so weight matters more here than on static parts. Cross-country racers obsess over grams. Race-level pedals can weigh under 300g per pair.

Lighter usually means less durable. Titanium spindles and carbon bodies shed weight but increase cost and fragility. Trail and enduro riders often accept extra weight for reliability.

Price and Value

Budget pedals work fine for learning. Shimano M520s cost $35 and perform like pedals three times the price. Race Face Chesters offer serious flat pedal performance for under $60.

High-end pedals improve materials, bearings, and weight. Whether that’s worth $200+ depends on your riding and competition level. Most riders are better served by mid-range options.

Maintenance Tips

Pedals survive neglect better than most parts, but maintenance extends life significantly:

Rinse mud off after wet rides. Grit works into bearings and seals. Check pins monthly and replace bent ones. Loose pins damage shoes and reduce grip.

Clipless pedals need occasional cleat inspection. Worn cleats cause unpredictable release. Replace when the engagement ears show visible wear.

Top Picks for Different Riding Styles

• Cross-Country: Shimano PD-M520, Crankbrothers Eggbeater 3
• Trail: Time ATAC XC 6, OneUp Components Composite Pedals
• Downhill: Crankbrothers Stamp 7, Race Face Chester

Pedal Installation and Setup

Left pedal threads backwards — counterclockwise to install. This prevents the pedal from unscrewing itself while riding. Right pedal threads normally.

Use a pedal wrench or 8mm Allen key. Apply grease to threads. Tighten firmly but don’t destroy the crank threads. Clipless tension starts low; increase as you build confidence clipping out.

Popular Brands to Consider

Shimano dominates clipless with SPD. Crankbrothers offers both clipless and flats with distinctive designs. Race Face builds durable flats for aggressive riding. Time pedals work exceptionally well in mud.

Smaller brands like OneUp and DMR compete on value and specific features. Don’t dismiss lesser-known options — some outperform the big names.

Personal Preference Matters Most

Borrow pedals before buying if possible. Demo days and generous friends help you test different systems without commitment. Your feet, shoes, and riding style determine what works.